Jumaat, 10 Jun 2011

The Malaysian Insider :: Food


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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


Ready for some casual Thai eats?

Posted: 10 Jun 2011 07:16 PM PDT

The story behind Son-in-law Eggs is a hoot.

Thai noodle soup with pork balls is on the breakfast menu.

KUALA LUMPUR, June 11 — A chance meeting with a friend on Sunday led me to Surisit, a Thai kopitiam in Taman Tun Dr Ismail in KL. At The Coffee Bar where we had tea and scones, she told me excitedly about this new Thai place along the same road. So there I went for lunch on the same day.

Surisit had only been opened for a week then. We considered the Easy Meals of Kheng Som Pla or Geang Kheiw Wan; the first with Sour Orange Fish and Vegetables, and Namprik Gapi or Thai Shrimp Paste Sambal with Omelette and Blanched Vegetables; the second with Green Curry Chicken and Namprik Gapi.

Then we got some friendly help with the ordering, and settled on the a la carte dishes like Kerabu Pucuk Paku, Tomyam Ka Moo (tomyam with braised pork hocks), and Muu Phat Sadtor (fried petai with shrimp paste and pork) instead.

The order got a bit mixed up and we got Tom Ka Khai instead, which is a coconut tomyam soup with chicken. I quite liked this. The tomyam is a mellow one because of the coconut milk; its tartness tempered by it.

Crispy fried pork with shrimp paste and deepfried lime leaves... great flavours here.

I had no issues with coconut milk, having read an article on its health benefits earlier. I pointed out the mix-up to our friendly service person, and she came back with apologies and a bowl of Tomyam Ka Moo for us to try, on the house.

This tomyam has dark chunks of pork braised with spices in it. They taste like Teochew braised pork and I loved the flavours oozing from the tender meat. It's a clear, tart tomyam, with all the requisite flavours and aromas, with lots of abalone mushrooms in it. It certainly gave an edge to the appetite.

The crunchy Pucuk Paku Yam Pla (kerabu pucuk paku) hit the right sour, hot and sweet notes; it was laced with coconut cream and had the punch of cili padi.

The Muu Phat Sadtor had petai fried with shrimp paste and pork. I wished there was more petai than pork in this. I would have liked it to be a little less watery too, then there would be more zest in it.

I noticed the restaurant is open for breakfast from 8am, so we were there two days later again for Thai Noodle Soup and Thai Stirfried Kwayteow. It's only RM8.50 per person, with coffee or tea, and it sure beats sitting in a hot, crowded coffeeshop for breakfast.

The stock for the Pork Noodle Soup tasted like it had simmered for long hours, the sweet essence of pork coming through. There were flavourful and bouncy pork balls , and shaped minced pork in it. I ate the noodles variously with chilli flakes and Thai pickled chillies and enjoyed them.

A serving of the tomyam with braised pork hocks.

The Thai Stirfried Kwayteow had a stirring aroma and was fried with kai lan.  Only the local coffee fell short – it could have been stronger.

I brought friends there the same day for dinner – I can never tire of Thai food. We had the Tomyam with the Braised Pork Hocks again, the Kerabu Pucuk Paku, the Fish with Crispy Garlic and Sauce, Minced Pork with Thai Basil Pork, Son-in-law Eggs and Crispy Fried Pork with Shrimp Paste and Deepfried Lime Leaves and Chilli Sauce.

The Crispy Fried Pork – seasoned with shrimp paste — lived up to expectations. It had a great mouthfeel, the fat part melting into the lean. The fried, crispy kaffir lime leaves imparted a wonderful fragrance and even better hot, sour and sweet chilli dip paired with this crispy pork.  It was an explosion of flavours in the mouth.

Sambal petai with pork... wish there had been more petai!

Later we found this versatile dip giving a discernible lift to the Fish with Crispy Garlic and Sauce. The sauce for this was one of taucheo with spring onions, garlic and chilli, much like what we use to douse our fried fish with at home. The well-fried siakap with crispy edges and fins tasted so much better with the dip from the crispy pork.

The Minced Pork with Basil had a herbal flavour about it instead of the fragrant sweet basil that we like. The Son-in-law Eggs were a mild tangy diversion from the rest of the dishes. This has deepfried hard-boiled eggs finished with a tamarind sauce cooked with palm sugar and garnished lavishly with fried shallots and chilli.

The story goes that if a man has made his wife unhappy, his mother-in-law will serve these deepfried eggs to him on his next visit to her home – get the message?

The menu at Surisit is still a work in progress, says Sita Jayadeva (formerly from Montien in One Bangsar), who is running the restaurant with her two nephews.

Surisit is opened daily from 8am to 10.30pm. It is located at 17, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur.

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