The Malaysian Insider :: Food

Posted: 08 Jul 2011 06:25 PM PDT

The shop is often packed but no one minds waiting

KUALA LUMPUR, July 9 — Walking into Setapak Teochew Restaurant in Jalan Pahang is like stepping back in time. Explore the row of wooden containers in the shop and you will find old-fashioned Chinese biscuits like hup to so bundled up in plastic bags, the sticky sweet eggy sart kay mah and other biscuits. This is also where people come and order their wedding biscuits, those flaky ones in pink and yellow filled with sweet red bean paste.

I half expect to see an abacus, but of course now there's a calculator on the counter. There are old nyonya baskets on top of the glass cupboard where cakes of pu er tea are displayed. The restaurant is after all 112 years old, and run by the same family who started it... now in its fourth generation.

You can find delicious old fashioned biscuits here as well

We had come for a noodle lunch on a public holiday, and the place was packed to the rafters. We managed to find a table outside after a little waiting. We took turns to go inside and find out what was available to eat. We peered into the kitchen where all the action was, amidst the hissing steam and flames from the wok.

The crispy fu chook with fishpaste is a must-have

Service was fast despite the crowd. We enjoyed slices of Crispy Fish Cake made from ikan parang. The Crispy Fu Chook which was layered in between with fishpaste tasted so good — thin crunchy fu chook breaking up at the bite, contrasting with the bouncy fishpaste.

A truly Teochew dish is the Handmade Big Fishballs with Vegetables and Seaweed Soup. It was lavish with seaweed and the fishballs were smooth and springy.

The main event was definitely the noodles — Hokkien Mee, Teochew White Noodles and White Fried Kwayteow.

Glistening Hokkien noodles... very yummy.

The Hokkien noodles glistened with the black sauce they had been stewed in, and had the usual slices of pork, lard crisps and vegetables. Many people have raved about these Hokkien noodles with all the requisite flavours and texture.

The Teochew White Noodles may not look attractive but they were "crazy good" according to my friend M. who had whisked me there. Indeed they were. Lots of fried garlic, minced pork, prawns, beansprouts, egg and fishcake tangled with the moist beehoon fried with light soya sauce, contributed to its appetizing aroma and amazing flavours. I picked out bits of choy poh or radish pickle in these very tasty noodles.

The White Fried Beehoon here is "crazy good."

"White" seems to be the flavourful colour here. Again we could not resist the White Fried Kwayteow. The noodles had been fried with dried prawns, cili padi, lard crisps, lots of garlic and slices of fish cake. They were simply scrumptious. It seems there more concentrated, delicious flavours in both types of white fried noodles.

White seems to be the flavour colour here... White Fried Kwayteow.

For such an old restaurant, it has a very modern printed menu as we discovered later. All the noodles we had were priced at RM7, RM10 and RM13 (for small, medium and large portions). The Crispy Fish Cake is RM4, Crispy Fu Chook RM7.

The restaurant is definitely worth more than one visit; just don't go at 1pm. I've got my eye on the Teochew Style Handmade Wantan Soup (the wantan skin is made with fish paste), the Spicy Pork Roll, Claypot King Prawn Mee, Fishhead Meehoon, Sang Mee with Pork Ribs (RM22), and even the Claypot Pork Porridge.

Restoran Setapak Teochew is located at 283 & 285, Jalan Pahang, Setapak, 53000 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 03-4023 8706. Watch out for it on your right, after the Tawakal Hospital.

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Kredit: http://www.themalaysianinsider.com

Sabtu, 9 Julai 2011

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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