Jumaat, 31 Ogos 2012

The Malaysian Insider :: Food


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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


Classic French at Ma Maison

Posted: 31 Aug 2012 05:26 PM PDT

The Escalope de Foie Gras Canard Miss Chan is named after a favourite diner at Ma Maison.

KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 1 ― Few French chefs here cook the way Bertrand J. Langlet does, using the classic techniques that have stayed with him, unchanged for the 16 years he has had Ma Maison in Kuala Lumpur.

There is no such thing as a platter prettily decorated with tiny blobs of food at his restaurant. If the Roast Lamb Rack with Mustard Crust calls for sauce, it's there, generously, for you to dip the meat in or slurp up if you like. If you started out ravenous, you would leave satiated.

We had this excellent lamb at our latest visit to Ma Maison. The meat was juicy and flavourful, the crust moist and lovely touched with the sauce. And I also liked the way the plate is heated before the food is laid on it and served. It's an old-fashioned touch that's not often practised these days.

Bertrand Langlet, the chef owner of Ma Maison.

Half a dozen Fine de Claire oysters were a fine, fresh start to dinner, followed by a basket of garlic toast hot from the oven. It was really nice settling down to a truly French meal in the cosy "home" setting of this restaurant.

The Escargots a la Bourgninonne or snails in Burgundy style were so good. The luscious escargots sat in a pool of melted garlic and herb butter, with stirring aromas. All the flavours clung to the escargots and even after we had eaten them we still wanted to dip our bread into the butter.

I had ordered a French Onion Soup, my nose following its delicious aroma as it was brought in. The soup was thick with caramelised onions that had poured its sweetness into the beef broth, and baked with a piece of bread on top, with cheese melting on it. It was the best French onion soup I had tasted in years. After this one, you can disregard all others, which are usually bland and insipid, even if the chef has professed to have made it to his maman's recipe.

Cod fish cooked in garlic stock with escargot is full of flavours.

Baked Goat Cheese on Greens with Gizzard was unusual. There were crusty round pieces of tart goat cheese on a salad of cucumber, lettuce and tomato, and in the centre were mushrooms sautéed with chicken gizzard.

You can't leave Ma Maison without having the Escalope de Foie Gras Canard "Miss Chan", named after Bertrand's favourite and long-time diner at the restaurant. The foie gras sits on a potato galette, with grapes on top, and more grapes on the plate together with lettuce and tomato in a sauce. The foie gras has a thin crispy crust. As you bite, it goes "puck", and you touch the rich, creamy centre of this duck liver. It's a deliciously sinful experience, but ah, there is the salad for a light, fruity and healthy balance.

A lighter main course would be the Codfish Cooked in Garlic Stock with Escargot. There are leek, carrot, cabbage and potato, together with chunks of creamy cod in the tasty stock, with a little vinegar to cut the richness of the dish. I liked this, and the fact that the dish stayed hot throughout, even though we were sharing a lot of food. The cod came with a lovely potato gratin.

The best French Onion Soup in the city.

Duck is always a good choice at Ma Maison, and the Duck Leg with Orange Sauce is a French classic. None do it better than Bertrand; the crispy roasted skin of the duck leg breaks into tender meat at the bite, well complemented by the lightly sweet orange sauce.

As for dessert, try the French Toast, Raspberry Coulis and Cinnamon, topped with ice-cream, and the Crème Caramel. Both are to die for. There are also the Crepes Ma Maison, which are apple pancakes with orange and vanilla ice-cream.

The food portions are generous at Ma Maison, and you need to share them. The Lamb Rack is RM60, Baked Goat Cheese Salad RM28, Escargots RM24, Foie Gras RM54, Cod RM54, Crème Caramel RM10, the French Toast RM16.

The restaurant is a charming one-man show, much like those you find in Europe. French cuisine is already being acknowledged as a dying art in France (as in the book "Au Revoir to All That" by Michael Steinberger). That we still have a French chef here steeped in the traditional ways of French cooking is remarkable.

Ma Maison is pork-free. It is located at 32 Persiaran Ampang, 55000 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 03-4256 5410. It's closed every Tuesday.

Ma Maison feels like one of the cosy places you can still find in Europe.


Eva Longoria to open ladies’ steakhouse

Posted: 31 Aug 2012 04:28 PM PDT

Longoria is interviewed at Variety's 3rd Annual Power of Women luncheon in Beverly Hills, California September 23, 2011. — Reuters pic

LAS VEGAS, Sept 1 — Actress Eva Longoria has shuttered her Las Vegas restaurant Beso and Eve Nightclub with plans to re-open the space as an eatery for the ladies, complete with catwalk, 3D projection mapping, cryogenic fog and rain curtains.

According to local website Vegas Seven, the new space called She is set to throw open its doors for a major New Year's Eve launch party and is pitching itself as a dining destination to see and be seen at.

Design elements, for instance, include tiered seating around a central dance floor and an outdoor patio that will be twice as large as that of Beso.

According to popular food blog Eater Vegas, the eatery will also be themed after the 1920s, while the former Eve Nightclub will include theatrical elements à la Crazy Horse Paris and Cirque du Soleil, with sexy female performers.

The menu will be developed by chef Todd Mark Miller and will involve an assortment of "modern boutique steak house" dishes and small bites to appeal to the ladies, reports Vegas Seven.

Interestingly, Miller is also the executive chef of STK Las Vegas Steakhouse at the Cosmopolitan which is also pitched as a dining destination for the ladies, described as offering a "flirty, feminine take on the American steakhouse." 

The eatery, located at the Crystals area in CityCenter, a 46,452-square metre shopping and dining complex, will be co-run by restaurateur Landry's, which counts Morton's The Steakhouse and Rainforest Café among its 40 brands. — AFP/Relaxnews


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