The Malaysian Insider :: Food

Posted: 19 Oct 2012 04:55 PM PDT

Braised Wine Mash Pork Ribs in Japanese Pumpkin. — Pictures by Eu Hooi Khaw

KUALA LUMPUR, OCT 20 — When Extra Supertanker first opened in Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, nine years ago, I took note of the fact the chef had a new, delicious take on Chinese food. The same Chef Chin, who is also one of the owners, is still there and he has continued to push the envelope, creating new dishes and drawing a loyal coterie of customers.

From one shoplot it has expanded to three, and yet another restaurant has also opened at The Club in Bandar Utama.

Four Treasure Soup.

Loong Fu Parn fillets bathed in hot oil.

In recent years, Extra Supertanker has become known for its Duck Sandwich and Thousand Layer Tofu, its braised dishes such as the Braised Soft Ribs with pig's tendon that's a special at the weekend, and the Roast Suckling Pig with a layer of prawn paste beneath, among others.

Recently Chef Chin rolled out some new dishes on his menu. One of these was the Sei Poh Tong or Four Treasures Soup. The smooth wantan popped up in the soup first, and we went on to unearth the fish maw, dried scallop, sea cucumber, chicken and black mushroom. I caught the stirring aroma of the double-boiled milky broth when the soup pot was unsealed, and every nuance and texture of each ingredient was well expressed in it.

We went on to the Kong Lam Kam Ngan Pau or Jiangnam gold and silver abalone. At first it looked like there were two abalones on the dish. But it was really a round of marrow stuffed with the centre of the abalone, on one side, and the abalone, on the other, had a fat dried scallop embedded in it. I enjoyed the luscious marrow ringed with black moss, then encountering the sweet flavour of the abalone centre. The taste of the whole abalone was intensified by the dried scallop. Both were brought together by a light, braising sauce.

The hot, zesty style of the Loong Fu Parn.

A good fish demands the best skill in cooking, in the simplest style, to bring out its natural flavours. The Loong Fu Parn in Two Styles brought together the subtle with the spicy. First thin fillets of this hybrid of the giant garoupa (loong tun) and the tiger garoupa (lo fu parn) were laid on a bed of spring onions, then constantly bathed with hot oil till just cooked. The oil also hit the spring onions, drawing a lovely aroma from them, and the fish was drizzled with a superior soya sauce. The fish stayed smooth, delicate and sweet.

Then the head, sides and bony parts of the fish were steamed with ginger, tau so or fermented soy beans, lots of grated ginger and some cili padi, providing a hot, zesty and delicious contrast to the fillets.

Jiangnam Gold and Silver Abalone.

Eringi Mushrooms in Two Styles.

Braised pork ribs marinated in wine mash, then double-boiled in a Japanese pumpkin was scrumptious. Who could fault the sweet potato-like texture of the pumpkin that had soaked in the winey sauce of the ribs, against the meat that fell off the bone? The combination was irresistible — all of it was finished, even the skin of the pumpkin.

The chef had drawn inspiration from bak kut teh, for his next dish — Pork Knuckle and Pig Stomach Braised in Herbs. There was the unmistakable aroma of dong quai in the sauce that also had other herbs in it. The simmering in the clay pot rendered a creamy texture to the skin of the very tender pork knuckle. The slices of pig stomach had soaked in all the herbal flavours in the stock too,

The Two Style Eringi Mushroom or Hang Far Koo impressed as well. Thick slices of this fleshy mushroom were sautéed, coated in salted egg yolk. Then pork shoulder ham was wrapped round lengths of the mushroom, flash fried and presented on a bed of caramelized onions. The salted egg yolk worked well with the sweet mushroom, as did the saltish ham with the sweet shallots. We made short work of these.

Teen Chat Stirfried with Pork Neck Meat in Spicy Style.

Teen Chat is a vegetable with an almost gelatinous texture when cooked. Here we had the vegetable stirfried in a spicy style with pork neck meat. The teen chat was lovely, soaking in the dried chilli and garlic of the tender pork.

The Fried Brown Rice with Wolfberries and Pumpkin was nicely done. It had firm rice grains tossed with plump sweet wolfberries, diced pumpkin, long beans, prawns and char siu.

Pork Knuckle and Pig's Stomach Braised in Herbs.

The Four Treasure Soup is RM25 each, Abalone RM38 a set, the Long Fu Parn RM19.80 per 100g, Pumpkin Sparefibs RM40, Pork Knuckle and Pig's Stomach RM50, Eringi Mushrooms RM25, Teen Chat with Pork Neck RM25, and Fried Rice RM25.

Extra Supertanker is located at 48, SS20/10, Damansara Kim, 47400 Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-7726 7768, 7726 7769. It's also at No 1 Club Drive, Bukit Utama, 47800 Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-7726 8877

Extra Supertanker

Posted: 19 Oct 2012 04:55 PM PDT

[unable to retrieve full-text content]KUALA LUMPUR, OCT 20 — When Extra Supertanker first opened in Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, nine years ago, I took note of the fact the chef had a new, delicious take on Chinese food. The same Chef Chin, who is also one of the owners, is still there and he has continued to push the envelope, creating new dishes and drawing a loyal coterie of ...

Kredit: http://www.themalaysianinsider.com

Jumaat, 19 Oktober 2012

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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