Isnin, 12 November 2012

The Malaysian Insider :: Food


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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


One chef, one ingredient: Julie Andrieu on red kuri squash

Posted: 12 Nov 2012 04:42 AM PST

PARIS, Nov 12 — If you are what you eat, then it could be said that chefs are what they cook. In an exclusive series from Relaxnews, some of the top chefs from around the world share their favorite food ingredient to prepare and eat, every week. Whether it be peas, apricots, or sea urchin, the answers are as varied as the chefs themselves. This week, French chef, TV host and food author Julie Andrieu, who insists on merely describing herself as food journalist, talks red kuri squash (potimarron).

French chef, TV host and food author Julie Andrieu. — AFP pic

Relaxnews: Why did you choose this product?

Julie Andrieu: It's a vegetable that is tasty, that packs in lots of flavor, and that can also add texture to a dish. It's very useful, because it can replace flour. It falls into the starches category! Red kuri squash actually has less water content than the winter squash. And it's easy to make desserts with it. I use it as a thickener in my dishes. You can also roast it. I'm thinking about a nice recipe for children: open the squash, and keep the 'lids.' Remove the strands and seeds. Add cream, nutmeg and cheese, and you get a nice and creamy red kuri squash soup. You can also make red kuri squash fries, or you can cook the squash in a microwave. Cut it into four parts and wrap it in cling film. Cooking time shouldn't exceed a few minutes. It can also be served in a hot and cold salad with hazelnut oil. It's a vegetable that's low in calories, that pleases the palate and won't you leave you feeling hungry.

R: What's your favorite memory related to the red kuri squash?

JA: My mother never cooked with it when I was a child. I learned to cook it myself later on. I thought it would be fun, and now it's a staple in my kitchen!

R: When is it in season?

JA: It's a winter vegetable. You can cook up until March-April. It widely grown in France, and is rarely imported from abroad, so it's easy to find here.

R: What's the best way to cook it?

JA: I like it au naturel. I highly recommend microwaving it, so as not to lose any of the vegetable's nutritional value. Microwaves allow for quick cooking, étouffée style. Then it's up to you, depending on the recipe you have in mind. In a soup, I add coconut milk, a product that works just as well with traditional [French] recipes and more exotic fare. Which reminds me, for instance, of my recipe for the galette des rois. I puree the red kuri squash with almond and frangipane spread on the bottom of the dish. There's also an Italian recipe of ravioli filled with amaretti biscuit powder mixed with parmesan and red kuri squash puree. It's a sweet and savory combination that works nicely.

R: What other product can you combine it with to surprise your guests?

JA: Cheese is a great combination with red kuri squash. Especially matured cheese such as cantal or blue cheese. Once again, fresh or bitter almonds of all types, such as almond oil, are also a good option.

R: What are the most common mistakes people make when cooking it?

JA: It's a vegetable that's very easy to cook right. If you're working with a raw red kuri squash, however, be careful not to cut yourself. I recommend throwing it in the oven for a little while or steam cooking it to get rid of the rind easily.

R: What type of red kuri squash recipes did you put in your next cook books?

JA: As a dessert, a creme brulee, in my latest book (Les insolites de Julie, Les Editions Culinaires). My next book will also include a pattypan or white squash recipe, using a small squash that is very similar to the red kuri squash. They're part of the same family.

R: What wine (or other type of alcohol) is best paired with it?

JA: I'd go for a white wine, a sweet moelleux, from the Loire region for instance, or either a Vieilles Vignes or a Vendanges Tardives. Preferably a rich, fruity and subtle wine. — AFP/Relaxnews


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