The Malaysian Insider :: Food |
Foochow cuisine comes to Taman Desa Posted: 28 Dec 2012 04:02 PM PST Finally I decided I had to go check it out for myself. Hoi Kee Heng Hwa Restaurant is famous for its Foochow food; it was in Brickfields for 20 years ― on the row most people referred to as Pines after the restaurant by that name on that row ― and then it moved to Serdang for 20 months. Now it is newly ensconced in Taman Desa and owner/chef Thomas Yee realised diners here have a finer palate, eschewing the heavier flavours and going for a lighter style of cooking. He cleverly served up the old favourites in the new style as brilliantly reflected in the Heng Hwa Mee Sua in Oyster Broth. It featured a thicker mee sua, specially made for the restaurant.The noodles were silken smooth, embraced by a broth which had been livened up with a dash of Chiu Hing wine and plump oysters. Some chopped choy sum, seaweed and fried peanuts were thrown into the light, lovely broth. This got us off to a delicious start to dinner. I wished I had ordered a larger portion for the three of us. The Signature Fishhead was highly recommended – this portion of carp or wan yue from the head to the belly – was heaped with a hot, fragrant ginger paste, then almost smothered in an oyster sauce that that had first been simmered with some taucheo and cili padi.I picked up a large piece of the carp and spread the ginger over it, after dipping it in the sauce. The smooth flesh tasted so good in the hot, spicy and lightly sweet sauce. I was told by a friend that her sister managed to finish a whole fishhead by herself at this restaurant. The Fresh Oyster Omelette was fluffy, its texture enhanced by some tapioca starch added to it. It was studded with fat round oysters that burst sublimely at the bite. Some chopped spring onions and peanuts, and a tart and garlicky chilli sauce complemented the omelette well. We liked the Stuffed Boneless Chicken Wings with Ham and Mushroom as well. Beneath the crispy skin was a juicy, smooth centre of black mushroom and ham. Altogether it was well seasoned and flavourful.The Pork in Pineapple Boat turned out nicely too; the meaty ribs were a well-balanced sweet and sour flavour. We were told there is no colouring in the tomato sauce which is cooked from scratch, as the chef, who learnt the trade from his father, is particular about the fresh ingredients staying natural. Now what should we eat when we come again, we asked the friendly woman who had taken our orders. She pointed to the Pork Knuckle in Claypot with herbs, mushrooms and fish bladder, Boneless Chicken with Plum Sauce, Fried Hockchew Rice Cake with garlic, Chinese cabbage and celery, Fried Heng Hwa Meehoon with chives and beansprouts, the Seaweed Broth with tofu, lala, chicken and crabmeat, and the Signature Crispy Beancurd. No wonder when we were waiting outside for a table, the couple who had just finished and offered us their table generously told us everything on the menu was nice!The prices: the Signature Fishhead was RM28, Stuffed Boneless Chicken Wings RM2.50 per piece, Pork in Pineapple Boat RM15, Oyster Omelette RM15, Mee Sua in Oyster Broth RM15. Hoi Kee Heng Hwa is located at 16 Jalan 1/109E, Desa Business Park, Taman Desa, Jalan Kelang Lama, 58100 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 012- 366 4096, 012-208 1910. It's just opposite the Taman Desa Medical Centre. |
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