Jumaat, 22 Februari 2013

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The Malaysian Insider :: Features


Roberto Cavalli revamps youthful line at Milan fashion week

Posted: 22 Feb 2013 03:06 AM PST

Models display creations from Just Cavalli's Autumn/Winter 2013 collection at Milan Fashion Week February 21, 2013. — Reuters pic

MILAN, Feb 22 — Italian glamorous designer Roberto Cavalli yesterday reinvented prints and shapes to breathe new energy in his youthful line and seduce new generations of globe-trotters.

Designers at the Milan fashion week presented bold creations on the second day of the 2013-14 autumn/winter shows, in a reaction to economic and political uncertainty in Italy.

The Florentine designer, whose animal prints and skinny leather-fringed jeans have been worn by actress Jennifer Lopez and model Cindy Crawford, said he personally oversaw the collection he is relaunching with Diesel founder Renzo Rosso.

"I wanted to show to all my fans all over the world that Roberto Cavalli is back," the designer told Reuters television on the stage of his packed show at the Arch of Peace, a landmark monument in central Milan he is contributing to restore.

Wearing a dark blue jacket and a sweater in matching color over a pair of jeans, Cavalli said he found inspiration from a woman he saw walking in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan.

"I speak to all the girls from 15 to 100 years old, a girl that loves the femininity as her personality," the designer said while keeping his inseparable German shepherd dog Lupo at leash.

Cavalli proposed large sweaters in jacquard animal prints and jackets with fur-lined hoods, with a mix of elegance and sporty styles to give models a contemporary look.

Young-focused lines, that the fashion industry used to call "second" lines to distinguish them from top lines, are playing a more important role in the fashion business as they cater to young consumers who spend less but demand something exclusive.

Similarly to Prada's MiuMiu, Versace's Versus or Giorgio Armani's Emporio Armani, fashion houses are reinventing these brands by opening dedicated stores and hosting glitzy shows.

Georgia May Jagger, the blonde daughter of Rolling Stone rocker Mick Jagger, is testimonial for Just Cavalli.

"I love sometimes to be the director of this orchestra but today I directed but also played the instruments, which means I did nearly all the collection by myself," Cavalli said.

Just Cavalli's sales will return to growth in 2013 after being hit hard by financial troubles at previous licensed manufacturer IT Holding, the group's chief executive said.

"We know that Just Cavalli started very well this year," CEO Giuseppe Brozzetti told Reuters on the sidelines of the show, where models wore fitting pants with coats in matching prints.

The group will open a Just Cavalli flagship store in New York in May, followed by a launch event during the New York fashion week in September, Brozzeti said.

In 2012, the group reported a 4 per cent increase in sales to €185 million.

Sales at directly-operated stores in the first months of this year were growing in line with last year, when they rose 23.4 per cent, Brozzetti said.

Excluding the impact from new stores, sales last year rose 18 per cent, helped by foreign markets, where Cavalli exports most of its production.

At another show yesterday, designer Anna Molinari presented a British-inspired collection for her Blugirl line, which also targets young customers. — Reuters

Greenpeace, anti-fur protest confront Milan fashion shows

Posted: 22 Feb 2013 03:02 AM PST

A member of an animal rights organisation holds a sign to protest against the use of animal fur in fashion, during Milan Fashion Week February 21, 2013. — Reuters pic

MILAN, Feb 22 — Environmental groups staged colourful demonstrations during the first two days of the Milan fashion week to protest against the use of toxic chemicals and furs in designer garments.

Catwalk shows traditionally have offered a stage for activists campaigning in defense of wildlife and the environment, but growing demand for coloured furs and washed denim jeans has fuelled more vigorous protests.

Yesterday, a woman activist tried to interrupt the show of Just Cavalli, the youth-oriented line by Roberto Cavalli, approaching the catwalk with a banner reading "Your fashion, their death".

The woman, whose banner was signed "visoniliberi.org" and was intended as a protest against Cavalli's use of fur in clothes other than those at the show, was photographed by news media before she was pulled away by staff.

Greenpeace on Wednesday rolled down a 12m-long green banner in the shape of a glove along the Sforzesco Castle, a Milan's landmark site, as part of its "fashion duel" campaign.

The environmental group is asking luxury goods makers to divulge details about their manufacturing policies and make commitments to preserving Amazon forests and water resources.

"We hope to create an open dialogue with Greenpeace, aimed at an enduring, shared commitment for the sustainability of the planet," Italy's National Fashion Chamber said in a statement.

Fifteen brands including Valentino, Dior, Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Versace have been asked by Greenpeace to say whether they buy leather from cattle that are linked to destruction of the Amazon, or use chemicals that can damage waterways.

Greenpeace deems the responses so far received by the brands unsatisfactory, with only Valentino getting their full approval.

Sales of fur reached record highs last year, according to the International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF), as China's growing appetite for luxury goods put the once-taboo material back on the catwalks.

Visoniliberi.org calls for the abolition of fur farming. — Reuters

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