The Malaysian Insider :: Food
The Malaysian Insider :: Food |
| US diners gorge on oysters as polluted bay revives Posted: 06 Apr 2014 06:17 PM PDT "Those will be at the restaurants tomorrow," says Tal Petty, 55, an oysterman who has worked these waters for 40 years. Today, the mollusk's reintroduction is playing a vital role in the health of the bay and Petty is quick to point out the dual ecological and gastronomical benefits. In recent summers, Petty says, he could not see much in the water at his farm in southeastern Maryland, because of a thick algae that thrived in the region's sweltering summers. But last year "all summer long, I was able to see the bottom, which means the oysters were filtering and cleaning," he said, talking to AFP at a cove near the small community of Hollywood. The eastern oyster, or Crassostrea Virginica as it is known scientifically, was once abundant in the Chesapeake, one of the world's largest estuaries and a major US waterway. But it nearly disappeared here at the end of the 20th century due to overfishing, disease and pollution. In 1607, when English explorer Captain John Smith – famous for his encounter with American Indian princess Pocahontas – explored the bay, "ships were running aground on oysters because they were so plentiful," says Steve Allen, biologist and senior manager at the Oyster Recovery Partnership (ORP), a public-private entity that is facilitating the mollusk's rehabilitation in the Chesapeake. Two decades ago, no more than one percent of the stocks that had existed in the Chesapeake a century earlier remained in the bay. This was troubling because the oyster cleans water by filter-feeding on phytoplankton that flourishes when excess nitrogen and phosphorus disrupt the water's ecological balance, the biologist said. In addition, the mollusk can clean 200 litres of water a day, which basically makes it "the kidney of the bay". The oyster's reefs also provide shelter for other animals such as fish, mussels and especially blue crabs, the pride of the state of Maryland and Chesapeake. Maryland and Virginia, the two states that border the Chesapeake, have in recent years launched rescue programs, creating sanctuaries and giving subsidised loans to develop oyster farms. Over the course of 10 years, ORP reintroduced 4.5 billion oysters, along with a recycling programme for empty shells to serve as nurseries for larvae. Virginia saw 10,000 tonnes of oysters collected during the winter of 2012 to 2013, double the year before and twenty times more than 15 years ago, although it represents only 1% of what was collected in the 1950s. Petty created his company Hollywood Oyster and left his job in finance five years ago to embark on his Chesapeake Bay venture. He never looked back. Baseball cap on head and cell phone to the ear, Petty takes orders from wholesalers and local restaurants from his boat. "We're growing the operation because of the demand," he says. "Two years ago, I started a million and a half oysters, last year I started almost 3 million oysters and this year I started almost 4 million," he said. "We are really lucky that chefs and customers love the taste profile of this cove, this is very, very good oyster water" he said, describing his oysters as having "a nutty taste with a cucumber finish". And thanks to American consumers' growing fondness for shellfish and local products, oysters are coming back into fashion. The Oyster bars that flourish in nearby Washington promote the local Chesapeake oyster with gusto. Tony Kowkabi, owner and manager of Catch 15, an oyster bar that opened three months ago a stone's throw from the White House, says it is a logical choice for his menu. "Chesapeake Bay oysters are delicious, we are in the neighbourhood, it makes sense for one of the best oysters in the country to be on my list," he says. – AFP/Relaxnews, April 7, 2014. |
| Prize Normandy cattle enjoy cider tipple Posted: 06 Apr 2014 05:54 PM PDT Cattle at his farm in northeastern France enjoy classical music, a special massage machine and even regular tipples of Normandy cider. In Japan, Kobe cattle – one of the wagyu breeds recognised worldwide for its quality – are treated to sake or beer. But in Normandy, cider is king. So, in his quest to produce ever better meat, this farmer and organic cider producer has been putting the Japanese technique into practice at his farm not far from the banks of the River Seine at Villequier, between Rouen and Le Havre. Six animals get extra-special special treatment with music, massage, organic food and plenty of fresh air. And when Craquelin, 40, fills up a bucket of cider with around 15 litres for his cattle, there is never a drop left. "I give them 150 litres four months before slaughter. For an animal of nearly a ton that represents the equivalent of 1.5 litres for a human," he told AFP. The alcohol is said to help create highly marbled meat with the muscle finely interspersed with monosaturated fat, giving the meat moisture and tenderness. Meat with marbling – or intramuscular fat – is especially high in oleic acid, a monosaturated fat also prevalent in olive oil, and commands the highest prices. Experts say the lower melting point also gives the meat a distinctive flavour which tastes better to most people. Craquelin, who took over the family farm a decade ago after studying at business school, has around 100 Normandy cattle of which six have recently had the "cider treatment". Fed on organic food and put out to graze on pasture for seven months of the year, the farmer sends the cattle for slaughter after three years. Then from March onwards the meat from his "cider beef" cattle starts to find its way onto the plates of some Normandy and Parisian restaurants. Two animals are slaughtered each month with everything consumed by the end of May. Some restaurateurs like Christophe Mauduit, from Jumieges in Normandy, reserve early to avoid missing out. This is a good product, with beautiful marbling," Mauduit told AFP. But it's not just this beef that Craquelin feels passionate about. As well as promoting this niche product, he also wants to promote the Normandy breed from which the region's famous butter and Camembert cheese is made. The breed won a blind test organised by Gault Millau, one of the most influential French restaurant guides, said Cindy Lebas, quality manager for the Rouen-based firm Grosdoit, a meat wholesaler which promotes the breed. And now, backed by the region's Pays de Caux-Vallee de Seine tourism office, Craquelin would like to see it gets its own "appellation d'origine controlee (AOC)" label, of the sort awarded to wine certifying its geographical origin. Despite being famed for its other produce, Normandy has yet to be recognised for its beef in the same way as Charolais or Limousin cattle from central France have been. It won't be an easy task, admits Craquelin, adding however that he is determined to work towards his goal over the "long term". – AFP/Relaxnews, April 7, 2014. |
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