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The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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French and fine at Croisette Posted: 02 May 2014 05:55 PM PDT BY EU HOOI KHAW May 03, 2014 Baked Mussels with Herb Butter, escargot style.It was telling that the amuse bouche at Croisette in Bangsar was pork pate and there was the inclusion of Filet Mignon Pork with Whole Grain Mustard in the menu at this French cafe. Bavarois Prawn Bisque with Avocado Cream and Cream Grelette.Chef/owner Pierre Chaillou has decided to have some pork items on his menu, while still maintaining a list of dishes that include seafood, duck, lamb and beef. Served on a slice of toasted baguette, the pork pate tasted rustic, full-bodied and satisfying. I thought of buying a chunk of this to take home. We were doing a tasting of the new menu at Croissette, beginning with Baked Mussels with Herb Butter, escargot style. They turned out to be juicy and drenched in melted butter with lots of chopped garlic and parsley. The Bavarois Prawn Bisque with Avocado Cream and Cream Grelette had a very light prawn mousse topped with prawns and sitting on a crushed cracker base. This chilled bavarois was so delicate, yet full of flavour which extended to the avocado cream, which matched it well. Lamb Loin Pan Seared, Garlic Cream and Gratin Potato.Pierre does a good duck confit, but we were not having it as a main course. It appeared, shredded, in the Salad Landaise, together with smoked duck and gizzards, tossed in vinaigrette and scattered with croutons. It was a worthy salad, and almost a meal in itself if you ate it on your own. I loved the Grosse Raviole Cepe Mushrooms and Foie Gras, Truffle Oil Cloud. The ravioli was super thin and smooth, tumbling out its filling of delicious cepe mushrooms and foie gras at the bite. It sat in a mushroom soup touched with truffle oil and drizzled with crème fraiche. The last of the five appetisers we tried was Scallops Panfried, with Leek Fondue and Prawn Raviole. The scallops were perfectly done, with caramelised edges and a light bounce. The sweet leek fondue complemented the scallops, and the fine prawn ravioli. Filet Mignon Pork, Whole Grain Mustard.Of the main courses, I was totally into the Pan Seared Lamb Loin with Garlic Cream and Gratin Potatoes. The meat was pink and tender, and the garlic cream was all that was needed to enhance the lamb. The cluster of baked garlic would have been better if I could just squeeze each one out of the skin. But the garlic was not soft and creamy enough. The Fillet Mignon Pork with Grain Mustard had the right doneness and texture, and needed little embellishment besides the mustard sauce. It was served with linguine. The Beef Ribeye Flambeed with Brandy, Black Pepper Sauce and Gratin Potato stood out for the red and green (besides black) peppercorns in the robust and aromatic sauce. It was just what the steak needed. Beef Ribeye Flambeed with Brandy, Black Pepper Sauce and Gratin Potato.For a fish course, the Salmon Fillet with Braised Green Lentils du Puy and Merlot Reduction is an excellent choice. The salmon had a crispy skin and flaked off easily; the lentils were so delicious in the merlot sauce. It's a substantial portion and might just fill you up. Desserts are always worth saving room for at Croisette. The Ice Souffle Orange and Contreau wowed us. It was creamy and light with a lovely citrusy and heady lift. The Chocolate Parfait, Orange Rind Confit Inclusion and Sauce Bergamot was exquisite. Apple Tart on Thin Crust, Bavarois Pear & Chocolate, Ginger Flavoured Cream.The Apple Tart on Thin Crust finished before I could get to it, but I'm not going to share this next time. It's baked a la minute and needs a 15-minute wait. Apple Tart Tartine is one of my favourite desserts. The sublime Gateau Fraisier, Patisserie Pistachio made up for this. This had a divine pistachio cream and strawberries sandwiched between two thin layers of sponge cake. (From left) Bavarois Pear & Chocolate, Ginger-flavoured Cream, Ice Souffle Orange & Contreau, Gateau Fraisier, Patisserie Pistachio.The Bavarois Pear & Chocolate with Ginger-Flavoured English Cream was like a moist and rich chocolate cake. You could pick any one of these five appetisers, main courses and desserts for a three-course dinner, and it would be just RM84 nett. Add two glasses of wine or two glasses of beer, and it would be RM118 nett. Of course there is an a la carte menu to choose your lunch and dinner from. The desserts are from RM12 to RM14 each, lamb loin is RM55, beef ribeye RM45, and Landaise Salad RM18. Croisette is located at Level 3, Cascadium Condominium, 28 Jalan Penaga, Bukit Bandaraya, Kuala Lumpur, tel 016-330 4477, 014-665 7944. It's open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11.45am to 2.30pm and 6.45pm to 10pm. Croisette will be opening soon in Tanjung Bungah, Penang. – May 3, 2014.

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