Jumaat, 1 Julai 2011

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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


Canadian chefs prepare meal fit for a prince

Posted: 01 Jul 2011 07:25 PM PDT

TORONTO, July 2 — It's a menu meant to give the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge a sampling of distinctly Canadian delicacies and regional specialties.

With Quebec foie gras, Atlantic smoked salmon, yak from Alberta and raspberry cordial — a version of the beverage, anyway, from Catherine's favourite childhood story and heroine, Anne of Green Gables — the royal couple will be fed dishes that are supposed to represent the Commonwealth country from coast to coast.

But aside from the iconic maple syrup and poutine — a greasy heap of fries, cheese curds and gravy from Quebec — what constitutes Canadian cuisine?

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge will be sampling Canadian specialties during their nine-day tour of Canada. — AFP pic

As a country built on the strength of immigrants with a spotty gastronomical history, which also lies in the shadow of their American neighbours' hamburgers and pizza, what does Canada define as its epicurean heritage?

Freshly-caught seafood, local cheeses and locally-raised meats.

When the couple arrives in Montreal today, for instance, they will be put to work in the kitchens of the Quebec Tourism and Hotel Institute, where they will don aprons and help cook their own meals. Dishes were chosen to highlight regional specialties, fresh local ingredients and wines.

To start the meal: an amuse-bouche of local foie gras on brioche toast and apple cider jelly; goat cheese from the Cantons-de-l'Est; duck confit, and mini bagels with smoked Atlantic salmon.

The second course will feature lobster from the Iles-de-la Madeleine prepared two ways: as a soufflé, and served with a red pepper coulis or sauce.

The main course will be a herb and cranberry-crusted lamb, with seasonal vegetables.

And to cap off the meal, the couple will be presented with a cheesecake made from fromage blanc, a maple syrup caramel sauce, meringue and a light cookie crust.

When they hit Prince Edward Island tomorrow for two days, the Duke and Duchess will be fed dishes that showcase that province's local agriculture, heavy on potatoes, and its fresh, local seafood.

Chefs from the Culinary Institute of Canada will prepare a menu that includes new potato chowder, steamed island mussels, barbecue pork belly with homemade mustard, barbecue beef rib-eye with onion marmalade, an oyster shucking station and strawberry shortcake.

Meanwhile, Catherine reportedly made a special request to visit Summerside, Prince Edward Island to see the setting of her favourite childhood book series "Anne of Green Gables".

As a tribute to her favourite heroine, Cows ice-cream company in Charlottetown will serve a bottled raspberry cordial drink. In the series, Anne accidentally gets her best friend drunk when she mistakes red currant wine for raspberry cordial, one of many shenanigans the fiery redhead gets into.

On their first day in Canada, the couple were also fed a meal prepared by culinary students that included sea urchin harvested by a scuba diver, spotted prawns from off the Queen Charlotte Islands, yak from Alberta, fruit wines from Saskatchewan and cheese from PEI. — AFP-Relaxnews

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The Phoenix rises… again!

Posted: 01 Jul 2011 06:13 PM PDT

The mango kwayteow is one dessert you don't want to miss. — Pictures by Eu Hooi Khaw

KUALA LUMPUR, July 2 — My eating history with Golden Phoenix at the Hotel Equatorial goes back a long way, when good, old-fashioned Cantonese dishes were served and when birthdays of senior relatives were regularly celebrated there. Many of those dishes are no longer on the menu.

Now the restaurant has undergone a facelift, sporting softer colours in its furnishings, in a more restrained Chinese décor. The menu too has changed, including that for dimsum, and chef Yau Kim Yew has given a new twist to old favourites.

The steamed prawn dumplings with pumpkin are absolutely delicious.

Take the Eye of Phoenix Steamed Prawn Dumpling with Pumpkin — it's not just any "har kow" but one that highlights the sweetness of the prawn without sugar added. The dumpling tumbles a springy prawn and chopped pumpkin into your mouth. Now my test for a tasty dimsum is whether it needs a chilli sauce dip — this didn't.

I liked it that the chef had thought of having a deepfried Japanese egg beancurd topped with prawn and tobiko. There's the lovely crunch of prawn sinking into soft eggy tofu — it is a marvellous combination.

The Steamed Pork Dumpling with Mushroom and Crabmeat is a reverse Shanghai dumpling. Half of it is crabmeat, and the other half mushroom. But the crabmeat tasted like the frozen kind that had been thawed out, so it had a sawdust aftertaste. It would have been better with fresh crabmeat. Give me the Shanghai dumpling any time.

Luscious-looking steamed beancurd with prawn meat.

In between we discovered the chef is a deft hand at anything deepfried. The Harm Sui Kok or Deepfried Glutinous Skin Puff with Chicken Meat Filling was so light in its sticky sweet pastry that contrasted deliciously with the savoury almost liquid meat filling that hinted of five-spice powder.

I even liked the Deepfried Beancurd Roll with Cheese, but not so the Deepfried Prawns with Cheese and Thai Sauce. The prawns had an instant noodle covering that didn't work at all. The noodles were just too thick and overwhelmed the more delicate prawn. Perhaps finer wantan noodles would have been better?

The Deepfried Sesame Ball Stuffed with Shredded Coconut was simply scrumptious. You could hear the crisp sound of your bite going right through to the moist, rich, shredded coconut filling with a little custard and roasted sesame. The lovely aroma of the coconut fills your senses. It reminds me of those coconut buns I used to eat as a child in Ipoh, sold by the "ting ting" man. It was just nicely sweet.

This prosperity salad is available year round... lots of crunch, colour and flavour.

The Baked BBQ Pork Buns passed muster: its filling had green peas in it to make it less rich; the pastry is a little resistant to the bite.

There's the Double Boiled Wantan Soup that tasted of miso, but is a perfect foil to the flavourful wantan.

The lunch went back to the main menu, with the Softshell Crab Prosperity Salad. Apparently prosperity is for all seasons. It was a combination of deepfried softshell crab, dried persimmon strips (unusual!), pear, apple, cuttlefish strips, pine nuts, sesame, peanuts, lettuce and carrot, tossed with an orange honey sauce. There was lots of crunch, amidst a fruity and lightly sweet sauce. It was an interesting collage of textures and flavours.

Peking Duck is now available every day at Golden Phoenix. We had a heap of crispy duck skin and prawn crackers, served with pancake, spring onion and pickles. The meat was fried with beansprouts.

Dimsum chef Yau is a deft hand at anything deepfriend.

The lunch hit the high note in the ending with the Durian Pancake, redolent with creamy D24 durian, and the Mango Kwayteow as the chef calls it. I slurped up the gorgeous, silky smooth, flat translucent noodles from the fragrant mango soup whipped with ice cream and loved the feel of them! How did the chef bring about this exquisite texture of the noodles? Well, it's gelatine melted in fresh full-cream milk, spread out as a super thin sheet and rolled up.

Most of the dimsum is priced between RM8 and RM12. The Mango Kwayteow is RM15, Softshell Crab Prosperity Salad RM38, durian roll RM18.

Dimsum is served at lunch on weekdays and from 10am to 3pm on weekends and public holidays.

The restaurant has also started selling mooncakes!

Golden Phoenix is in Hotel Equatorial Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 03-2161-7777).

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