Selasa, 29 November 2011

The Malaysian Insider :: Food


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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


Food for thought

Posted: 29 Nov 2011 08:00 PM PST

Michael Saxon says cooking is a serious business. – Pictures by Jack Ooi

KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 30 — We have always been known as a nation of "eaters"; we eat when we are happy, we eat when we are sad and we eat just to eat. After all, how many times have you heard Malaysians talking about what food they miss most when they are abroad?

Well, it looks like we also like watching people cook. On TV. Food shows themselves are certainly not new though. I remember watching The Galloping Gourmet with my family – on our black and white telly — back in the Seventies. (It was also the first time I heard of clarified butter!)

I guess Graham Kerr — the galloping gourmet himself – was my first celebrity chef. But now, we are spoilt for choice with Jamie Oliver, Michael Smith, Nigella Lawson, Anna Olson and Laura Calder cooking regularly for us.

Then there are the cooking reality shows/contests: I have to say I love them. Especially MasterChef Australia and Junior MasterChef Australia (those little pre-teens zipping around cooking things like celeriac remoulade, macarons, etc… freakish, I tell you!).

So when it was announced last July that the Asian Food Channel (AFC) was partnering with Malaysian luxury lifestyle group Eastern & Oriental Berhad (E&O) to search for the next celebrity chef from this part of the world, there was definitely excitement.

Now, just after three episodes of the E&O Search for AFC's Next Celebrity Chef, the city's foodies are already abuzz about the show, its contestants and of course, the judges – Chef Bruce Lim and E&O's director of Group Hospitality and Lifestyle Michael Saxon.

Some people think the show is over the top – Episode 1 saw Chef Bruce throw a plate of food on the floor, then there was Episode Two where one of the contestants took off his shirt, plus we regularly see contestants quaking in their shoes when the judges critique them -- while others are enormously proud that Malaysia is so prominently featured in the show.

Is the show an unequivocal success? While it's still early days (there are five more episodes to go), one has the sneaking suspicion there just might be a Season Two of E& O Search for AFC's Next Celebrity Chef. In showbiz (and this most certainly does fall into that category), any buzz is good.

But Saxon, who was himself a professional chef for 26 years, said while Chef Bruce's Gordon Ramsay-like behaviour may be deemed over the top, the intent behind the action was absolutely spot on. It's about discipline in the kitchen, he explained.

"If you are a chef, you are the most important person in the hotel or restaurant. Your food makes or breaks the reputation of a place." The way Saxon sees it, there is too much at stake and as a chef you only have that ONE chance to make a good impression. So, you simply cannot afford to say, "Never mind lah, try harder next time."

He drew up some compelling scenarios why cooking professionally is a serious business: "Imagine a young couple who have saved, and saved for their big day. It may only be RM20,000 but it is all they have to celebrate their wedding. If the food is terrible, everything is ruined. Years from now, that will be all they remember of their wedding. There is no next time. They are not going to have another wedding banquet."

Yes, Saxon may not throw a hissy fit and throw your plate of food on the floor but he is very exacting in the way he judges what or who makes a good chef. So what has he learned about the world of reality TV so far?

"After being on set for about 16 hours a day, six days a week for about four weeks, I have a lot of respect for anyone who does TV," said Saxon. Despite the long hours, stress, time constraints and constant deadlines, he added that he had a lot of fun doing the show.

"It's also taught me a bit of respect for celebrity chefs," he said, with a laugh. After all, to get one hour of good footage you very often have to shoot for up to 12 hours.

Delicious is a home-grown Malaysian brand.

Most of all, Saxon who started working in a professional kitchen at age 16 said he is most pleased to observe that Asian chefs have really come into their own. He first came to work as a chef in Asia back in 1988. "Those days it was all gweilos working as chefs in the big hotels," he explained. In fact, Saxon was already an executive chef at the young age of 29.

Also, he enjoyed watching the contestants of AFC's Next Celebrity Chef grow through the episodes. So how much of the show was scripted and how much was real? "Pretty much all of it... every day was a surprise."

Some of the highlights so far: Dayal from the Philippines taking off his shirt (it angered Saxon and floored guest judge Chef Wan!) and a couple contestants withdrawing from the contest. The show comes on every Wednesday at 10pm over the Asian Food Channel (Astro 703) and we can be sure there will be more surprises in the weeks ahead.

But the show is already behind Saxon — even though he has become a celebrity from it... people recognise him now and strangers have walked up to him to ask if he is the guy from the TV show -- and he is now embarking on his next challenge: to grow the Delicious Group into a powerful brand.

Saxon, who is also the CEO of Delicious, went on Twitter last week to solicit feedback on the restaurants (there are now seven in Malaysia and one in Singapore): "Calling all Malaysians, I am Mike Saxon the CEO of Delicious & I am calling on all customers to give me their feedback on our services."

A bold move, but something Saxon is determined to follow through. He said that while it was great that they opened three new outlets this year, it really is time to improve the food and service standards in the restaurants. (By the way, his Twitter handle is @chefstales.)

This week, in fact, he will be meeting — and lunching — with some of those who have given him feedback! This time, the judge will be judged and knowing Saxon he will be relishing every moment.

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Tokyo retains title as Michelin’s gourmet capital

Posted: 29 Nov 2011 02:27 AM PST

A chef grills a piece of beef strip at a restaurant in Yokohama on July 27, 2011. ― Reuters pic

TOKYO, Nov 29 ― Tokyo retained the title of the world's gourmet capital today, when the Michelin guide awarded it more stars than any other city for the fifth year in a row.

Tokyo restaurants also won more top awards than last year with 16 given the three-star rating, which Michelin defines as "exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey". That is two more than last year and compares with 10 for Paris.

Fourteen of Tokyo's top spots serve Japanese cuisine and two French.

In the 2012 edition of the Michelin restaurant guide for Japan's capital, Yokohama and the adjacent coastal area of Shonan launched today, Tokyo sushi restaurant "Yoshitake" shot to the top ranking in its first listing.

Restaurant "Koan" in the Shonan area covered for the first time also joined the ranking with three stars, bringing the total three-star haul of the Tokyo-Yokohama-Shonan area to 17.

Tokyo's "Ryugin" was promoted from two to three stars. A Korean restaurant in Tokyo, "Moranbong" joined the list with two stars, becoming the highest-ranked Korean restaurant in the world.

Among 247 starred Tokyo restaurants, 52 received two stars and 179 received one star. By comparison, Paris has only 70 starred restaurants in the guide published by the French tire maker.

The selection features a range of styles of Japanese dining from fugu ― puffer fish that can be lethal if improperly prepared ― sushi and tempura to "salaryman" favorites such as soba buckwheat noodles and yakitori grilled chicken skewers.

The awards are highly respected in Japan, one of the world's most food-obsessed nations and the guide's latest edition marks continued expansion of Japan's coverage.

"Since the first publication of the guide in 2007, we have enriched the selection by expanding the area. Starting from Tokyo in 2007, we now cover 7 areas in our two guides: Tokyo, Yokohama, Shonan, and Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Nara," Bernard Delmas, president of Nihon Michelin Tire said in a statement.

Tokyo's three-star Japanese restaurants are Araki, Azabu Yukimura, Esaki, Hamadaya, Ishikawa, Kanda, Koju, Ryugin, 7chome Kyoboshi, Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten, Sushi Mizutani, Sushi Saito, Sushi Yoshitake and Usukifugu Yamadaya. The French restaurants are Joel Robuchon and Quintessence.

In Yokohama, Japanese restaurants Chiso Kimura, Masagosaryo and Sugai earned two stars, and 14 earned one. Two restaurants in Shonan earned two stars and 26 one star.

In a separate edition for Japan's Kansai region published last month, centered on Osaka and the ancient capital of Kyoto, 15 restaurants garnered three-star ratings.

The first Michelin restaurant guide, aimed at drivers in the early days of motoring, was published by the tire company in 1900, and the star rating system was introduced in the 1920s.

The company only ventured out of Europe for the first time in 2005, with its guide to New York. Its Tokyo guide, launched late in 2007, was its first in Asia, though it has since added Hong Kong. ― Reuters


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