The Malaysian Insider :: Food

Posted: 09 Oct 2012 05:28 PM PDT

The "gnoccho" with Prosciutto de Parma... delightful – Pictures by Helen Ong

GEORGE TOWN, Oct 10 — Eighty Eight, a relatively new kid in town, is named not for the street number it is located at as you would expect, but after the year its proprietor cum executive chef was born.

Carbonara with Parma Chips... interesting take on the traditional pasta dish.

It doesn't take a mathematical genius to work out that Penang boy Danny Ng is therefore just 24, but despite that relatively tender age, comes with good credentials.

He trained at the At-Sunrice Globalchef Academy in Singapore, then worked in several well-known establishments over the past few years. He started Eighty Eight in April this year.

Set in an unassuming little house along Kelawei Road, Eighty Eight's internal décor is a bit like its exterior: understated and relatively stark, and furnished with plain, serviceable wooden tables and chairs. However, this place is already upping the ante in town, and becoming known as a restaurant, which offers something out of the ordinary.

What stands out is Danny's obvious interest and devotion to the culinary arts. "In Singapore, we would volunteer our holiday time to work unpaid in other kitchens just to gain more experience."

Chef Danny Ng may just be 24 but he's passionate about his cooking.

This passion shows in the small but well thought out menu which offers a selection of Western-style dishes, most of which were created by him. "I learnt how to use different ingredients in Singapore," the modest, soft-spoken chef explained, "which I experiment with, and come out with new ideas".

Take his Muffin Bread; it's made with potato, and the exterior is crispy yet it's soft and springy inside, and goes well with the brown burnt butter it is served with.

Although the menu changes monthly depending on how he feels and what's available in the market, some items can't be removed as regulars keep coming back for them. The Lobster Bisque is one: the thick stock is a rich, dark brown, full of oomph and a hint of brandy. I also rather enjoyed the Prosciutto de Parma, thinly sliced parma ham dribbled with balsamic vinegar reduction which is then wrapped around the gnoccho (sic), fried dough biscuit with which it is served.

The interior of Eighty Eight is understated, luckily its food is not.

Their signature Linguini with Sundried Tomatoes, Clams and Prawns I'm told is very popular, and I can see why – it looks inviting, the reds and pinks contrasting well with the pastel of the pasta, and very tasty. Even the Carbonara is different — it's more like Pasta with Wild Mushroom and Cream Sauce, topped with parma chips, but so good it was polished off within minutes.

It's not your average restaurant, so do expect prices to reflect that. However, as Danny insists, "I don't compromise on the quality of our ingredients."

As far as desserts go, there isn't a large choice, but what is there is good and imaginative. The piece de resistance, for me, was the Gratinee Sabayone — a smooth, delicious home-made vanilla ice cream served with torched custard fresh and strawberries in Marsala wine. It's worth going just for that alone.

Eighty Eight Restaurant

49A Jalan Kelawei, 10250 Penang

Tel: +604 226 2821

Opening Hours: Noon — 2.30pm/6.30-10.30pm

Closed on Tuesdays

Kredit: http://www.themalaysianinsider.com

Selasa, 9 Oktober 2012

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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