The Malaysian Insider :: Food
The Malaysian Insider :: Food |
| Posted: 14 Jan 2013 06:05 PM PST  Hong Kong's famed waterfront cityscape from both island and Kowloon side. — Pictures by Jonathan Ooi Apart from Singapore (where I've been based for the last six months), I've collected the most stamps in my passport courtesy of the Hong Kong SAR's Immigration Department – out of which, three times were in July alone! Friends know of my initial dislike for Hong Kong. It has nothing to do with the city itself, just based on a series of the most unfortunate events. But as the saying goes, the best way to a man's heart is through his stomach and over the span of the last 12 months, this global Chinatown has certainly won me over. So it was no surprise when my friends asked, "Again?" with puzzled 'are-you-sure?' faces when I told them where I was going to spend my year-end holidays. I replied with sure gusto, "You betcha!" This time I was on a mission; to reset a dear friend's culinary perception of the country. The poor sod, YS, made his virgin visit earlier in 2012 with his family and ended up spending an entire week hanging around the old Kai Tak Airport neighbourhood and chomping down McDonald's every meal just because the younger members of his clan didn't feel like eating at tight-noisy-hole-in-the-wall places (which by the way is what a trip to Hong Kong is all about). How can you not feel sorry for this guy? Between old favourites to newfound gems I was determined to show YS the "real" Hong Kong, one plate at a time.  Wax-cured meat on display during the winter season at Yung Kee Restaurant; The restaurant's signature Century Egg with pickled Ginger appetiser. Touristy favourites By the time we landed at HKIA it was noon. We checked in at a spanking new hotel in the Sheung Wan/Central district. It was by no means a luxurious 5-star establishment but we thought it would be a good change for him staying on the island side this time around. As with most visitors, we headed straight to Yung Kee for some sure-pleasing roast goose. For over 70 years this restaurant has earned its place in the hearts of many global citizens. No doubt it may be every tourist's first culinary port of call but the food here never fails to impress. YS was most definitely satisfied with their luxuriously creamy-centred century egg appetiser, Stir-fried Wolf Herring Fillet with Ginger and Scallions and the delightful Claypot Belly of Lamb from their winter season menu. Our week of gluttony was definitely off to a great start. Speaking of tourist spots, we hopped over to Lan Fong Yuen for their signature Pantyhose Cold Milk Tea. Its name may be a little off-putting but the locals have crowned their sexily smooth tea the island's most delicious. Who are we to argue with such boisterous claims? I suggested that we have the cold tea to-go so that we can march on and find ourselves some egg tarts from both Honolulu Café and Tai Cheong Bakery, which were also located just around the corner. Guess the neighbourhood is called Central for a reason.  Honolulu Café's flaky pastry egg tarts with golden custard filling; the tight and chaotic kitchenette at Lan Fong Yuen in Central. Battle of the eggs The one thing I enjoy most when I travel is to watch local people going about doing their own thing and then trying it out on my own. And here in Hong Kong, the best place to get a piece of that action is to join in the breakfast rush at a bing sutt – a local eatery with small menus based around Hong Kong versions of Western comfort food, iced drinks, coffee and tea at affordable prices.  A steaming hot bowl of "Dan Nai" (Double Steamed Milk Pudding); take a romantic cruise across the busy waterway on the Star Ferry.] My usual orders are the buttery egg sandwich and Double-Steamed Milk Pudding. The latter is also a favourite dessert of mine and I have occasionally in the past made late-night runs here to help myself to a bowl of their milky, warm, and light-as-cloud treat whenever I am in town. Don't act too surprised if you find the place to be just as packed in the night. Back on the island side is another gem of a bing sutt in Wan Chai - just a block away from the well-known Bowrington Road fresh food market - which I've recently read about in The New York Times. A little Googling later revealed this to be the best locally voted spot for scrambled eggs. Having tasted some great scrambles the night before at Australia Dairy Company, Capital Café was not going to have it easy.  Butcher at the traditional Bowrington Market; the wonderful scrambled eggs with truffles from Capital Café. And how were the scrambled eggs, you ask? Absolutely A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! They were silk and best sandwiched between two inch-thick buttered toasts. You can also opt to have black truffles on top and at HKD35 (RM13), this has to be the cheapest truffle-anything I've ever come across! Global feast village Hong Kong is without doubt a quirky place. Everywhere you look you'll find a complete mish mash of cultures attempting, and to some extent succeeding, to co-exist in the same location.  ABC is the only stall in the whole food court to attract non-Chinese patrons; the pillow-perfect Pavlova for a sweet ending. Heady aromas of soy, garlic, ginger and onions assaulted our table from all directions, emanating from neighbouring food stalls that fill this large fluorescent-lit hawker centre. In a few moments, we would be digging into a hearty Mediterranean feast served and prepared by one of the most genuine band of merry men (and women). In my books, such public food halls carry just as much appeal as any Michelin-starred restaurant. I was once introduced to the two pioneers, trained at the now-closed M at the Fringe, who remake dishes of the much-romanticised hospitality institution in a scaled down version right here in the belly of the Queen Street Cooked Food Market, and deliver it with a whole lot of heart. Here we found M's classic recipes – Roasted Suckling Pig, Beef Wellington, Pavlova, and Dessert Souffles – amongst seasonal offerings on their menu at a steal of a price compared to regular restaurants. Although I suspect neighbouring stalls are probably scratching their heads and thinking otherwise. We are eating in a food court after all.  22 Ship's dreamy Truffled Eggs with Celeriac; Rainy day along Ship Street in Wan Chai. For the Michelin-star chef's, of Pollen Street Social and Esquina fame, maiden voyage into Hong Kong's culinary world, he wanted to introduce new flavours to the mix, and created an easygoing place where people could go to relax and mingle. Don't go expecting patatas bravas and chorizos. Instead be ready to indulge in creative newfangled plates of Truffled Egg and Celeriac, mini Char GrillPan-seared Tuna with Miso Aubergine and Sherry Dressing, mini Chargrilled Iberico Pork & Foie Gras Burgers and his signature Suckling Pig, roasted apple with spices and piquillo jus. All tapas are served alongside foamed Sangria with freeze-dried berries, a dynamic list of wines, spirits, and Spanish beers, even at lunch. Michelin-star dumplings Now in the final moments of our weeklong eating fest and YS's memories of his family past getaway quickly replaced by every new dish he has tasted, we had just one more stop to make.  What is Hong Kong without its neon glows in the twilight hours; heavenly Baked Char Siu Baos from Tim Ho Wan. The only downside to a trip of such gluttonous proportions, is having to hit the gym after. Damn, why didn't the Mayan prophecy come true? Directory: 22 Ships ABC Kitchen Australia Dairy Company Capital Café Honolulu Café Lan Fong Yuen Tai Cheong Bakery Tim Ho Wan Dim Sum Expert Yung Kee Restaurant *Jonathan Ooi believes whole-heartedly in eating and travelling first. Gym can come much, much, much later. Perhaps after he's tasted the entire planet. Then again there are other planets to discover! Follow his food and travel musings on www.alilfatmonkey.com and @alilfatmonkey on Twitter and Instagram. |
| Website names José Andrés American Chef of the Year Posted: 14 Jan 2013 03:54 PM PST  Chef José Andrés has been named American Chef of the Year by The Daily Meal. — AFP-Relaxnews pic In a sea of chef talent, Spanish chef Andrés and Italy's Bottura stood out in 2012 for being "game changers," pioneers and new standard bearers in the world of gastronomy, say editors of The Daily Meal. Andrés was named American Chef of the Year, beating out other contenders and culinary stalwarts like Eric Bernardin, Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud for boasting an especially productive year. A laundry list that highlights some of of Andrés' accomplishments last year is, indeed, impressive. After joining the food truck scene with the launch of Pepe, he opened a new restaurant in Miami, The Bazaar at the SLS Hotel, and reopened minibar in Washington D.C. Andrés was also recruited by George Washington University to teach an undergraduate and graduate course "The World on a Plate: How Food Shapes Civilization," that will examine how food and society intersect. American cable network NBC has likewise tapped the chef to act as culinary advisor for its Hannibal Lecter series. In between all that, the chef also found the time to sign up for the American Chef Corps, a diplomatic effort to promote American ingredients, products and cuisine abroad and continue his philanthropic efforts in Haiti where he's filming a project that highlights the country's gastronomy. Andrés joins Alinea chef Grant Achatz of Chicago as The Daily Meal's American Chef of the Year. Meanwhile, editors also called Bottura, winner of the International Chef of the Year award, for being "one of the most innovative chefs in the world today." Read more at http://bit.ly/VFhp07. — AFP-Relaxnews |
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