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The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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On a high at Marini’s on 57 Posted: 10 Jan 2014 02:55 PM PST BY EU HOOI KHAW January 11, 2014 Apart from its beautiful food Marini's come here for the spectacular view of the Kuala Lumpur skyline.We were at the lounge at Marini's on 57 at 4pm and watched the transition from a hazy evening outside to the orange glow of lights embracing the tall buildings as dusk settled into night. At Level 57, the view is what most people come here for. I have a friend who celebrated her birthday with drinks at the bar, with the Petronas Twin Towers almost within touching distance. The lounge is plush and lush, and the walls of the bar are imprinted with bottles of single malt whiskey and all the liquor fancied by Marini's clientele. Insalata or salad is made up of an assortment of vegetables, fruits and nuts.We sipped an Elderflower Smash with mint, lemon, soda and elderflower syrup, and ordered the Pizza Capricciosa, and Orechiette Pasta with Smoked Duck, Rucola and Truffle Oil. The thin crust pizza with artichokes, tomato, chicken, wild mushrooms and mozzarella was perky with artichokes. I rather liked the al dente orechiette (ear-shaped pasta) with smoked duck and rucola touched with truffle oil. Dinner at the restaurant started intriguingly with what looked like a bonsai plant with mossy balls hanging on it. They turned out to be mashed Deepfried Kalamata Olives Coated with Parmesan and Basil Crumbs. They were intense and salty. It was an "ooh-and-ahh" moment with the Insalata which was so pretty. It is a salad with 20 types of vegetables, fruits and nuts, four types of edible soil, a choice of 4 perfumes and 10 dressings. The large platter rested on sprigs of lavender. The edible soils were charcoal, basil, oat, and oat and basil. In the salad were beetroot, tomato, radicchio, red radish, arugula, almond, leek, spinach, walnuts, orange, grapefruit, mushroom, green and white asparagus, endive, fennel, green apple, baby spinach, lentil, lamb lettuce and baby carrot. There were mind-boggling choices to be made. We asked for a lemon perfume to be sprayed over it, then put each combination of ingredients on our plate and matched the dressing with them. My top dressing was the raspberry one, followed by the basil pesto and the balsamic reduction. Sliced Lobster Tail, Burrata Cheese, Crustacean Emulsion and Petaluma Caviar.Like the Insalata, the Thinly Sliced Lobster Tail, Burrata Cheese, Crustacean Emulsion and Petaluma Caviar was art on a plate. You wouldn't think lobster would go with cheese, but this was an exceptional pairing. The almost transparent slice of lobster danced in my mouth with the light, creamy cheese, with salty lifts from sevruga caviar and Petaluma ocean trout roe. Chef Federico Micheletto looked on approvingly and said: "A cheese like this is easy to combine with seafood." Burrata means "buttered" in Italian, and is a combination of mozzarella and fresh cream. Chef Federico MichelettoThere was the smell of the ocean in the Cold Capellini with Belon Oysters, Sevruga Caviar, Black Truffle, Squid Ink and Sour Cream. The oysters were luscious and sweet; we asked for more, and we got them, with lemon, shallot and raspberry vinaigrette. Altogether the pasta and all its deluxe components worked wonderfully well together, the natural saltiness of oysters and caviar flavouring the pasta, the black truffle giving it an aromatic lift. Panfried Goose liver, port wine reduction dried persimmon and pan brioche.The Panfried Foie Gras with Port Wine Reduction and Dried Persimmon and Pan Brioche was sublime. A small piece of gooseliver on the light, buttery brioche touched with persimmon marmalade was just heavenly, as well as the light crackle of the dried persimmon slice. The Pappardelle al Tartufo, tossed in clarified butter, with 32-month-old Parmesan and white truffle, was a moment to just breathe in and revel in their textures and aromas. This was amazingly good. Black and Blue, the Master Kobe Beef with Idaho potato baked in sea salt and olive oil.The black and blue Master Kobe Beef with 9/10 marbling, was accompanied by a baked Idaho potato with sea salt tucked inside and drizzled with olive oil. The Kobe beef was put on a hot grill just a minute on each side, so that you relished its velvety mouthfeel and juiciness. I had no need of the sauce served with it. I liked the fluffy potato too with its salty burst and flavours brought out with baking in olive oil. The cheese trolley was wheeled out. Chef Federico recommended the Bagoss cheese and the Barolo cheese with pressed grape skins on top. The Bagoss, which has a robust, nutty flavour, gets its colour from a pinch of saffron added during the breaking of curd. The Barolo cheese is coated with pressed grapes used to make Barolo wine. The cheese is creamy, sweet and a little wine-y. I tried the Barolo with Mostarda – sticky sweet fruit compote spiced with mustard seeds and loved the salty and the sweet coming together. Dessert was the Darquoise of six layers of chocolate with a warm raspberry sauce poured over it. At the bottom was a salty chocolate biscuit. This was divine. The chef does some delicate and delicious canele too. It's a French pastry with a soft custard centre. Fruitti de Bosco – hazelnut crumble in green tea parfait, strawberry mousse jelly and white chocolate gelato.Fruitti de Bosco, a colourful platter of hazelnut crumble in green tea parfait and ganache, strawberry mousse and jelly with white chocolate gelato. Marini's is at Level 57, Menara 3 Petronas, 50088 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2161 2880. Reservation is required at least a week in advance. – January 11, 2014.

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