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The Malaysian Insider :: Food


Winemaker launches collection based on Chinese folklore

Posted: 30 May 2014 07:09 PM PDT

May 31, 2014

The Wisemenship Wine Collection. – AFP/Relaxnews pic, May 31, 2014.The Wisemenship Wine Collection. – AFP/Relaxnews pic, May 31, 2014.A premium winemaker in China used the world's largest wine trade fair to launch a new collection of wines that pays tribute to traditional Chinese culture and the tenets of ancient folklore.

Dynasty Fine Wines debuted the Wisemenship Wine Collection at Vinexpo Asia-Pacific in Hong Kong this week. The quartet of wines are being marketed to represent the qualities and skills in Chinese scholarship, as depicted by four plants: a plum tree, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum.

In ancient Chinese folklore, the plum tree is meant to symbolise resilience and perseverance. In the Wisemenship Wine Collection, the plum tree Fiera is made with Muscat, Italian Riesling and Chardonnay.

The orchid, or Elegantia, symbolises modesty and beauty and is represented as an oak-matured Merlot with aromas of violet, cherry and blackberry.

To represent bamboo and the accompanying virtues of modesty and gentle strength, Modesta is a dry Merlot with aromas of coffee, blackberry, "grilled meat" and cream, while Ravissantia or the courage of the chrysanthemum is turned into a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon with hints of sweet pepper, eucalyptus, clove, cinnamon and licorice.

Dynasty produces wines in collaboration with its second biggest shareholder, French spirits brand Remy Cointreau. – AFP/Relaxnews, May 31, 2014.

A winning feast at Pak Loh Chiu Chow

Posted: 30 May 2014 06:05 PM PDT

BY EU HOOI KHAW
May 31, 2014

The Shredded Cuttlefish with Cucumber and Chilled Bittergourd with Plum. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.The Shredded Cuttlefish with Cucumber and Chilled Bittergourd with Plum. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Leave no sauce on the plate unfinished at Pak Loh Chiu Chow. There we were, slurping up every bit of it in the Shredded Cuttlefish with Cucumber and Chilled Bittergourd with Plum – it was that good. These are two dishes in the Combination of Cold Platters at this award-winning restaurant at Feast Village in Starhill Gallery. Only the third dish – Pork Jelly with Chinese Wine – did not come with any sauce, but that is another story.

Steamed Fillet of Imperial Sea Grouper rolled with Vegetables in Chiu Chow Style. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Steamed Fillet of Imperial Sea Grouper rolled with Vegetables in Chiu Chow Style. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.The Shredded Cuttlefish with Cucumber had jellyfish topped with grilled cuttlefish that had been pounded and cut into strips. This came with a sweet, sour and hot sauce that was perfectly tuned up. The Chilled Bittergourd had been immersed in an infusion of sour plum, rock sugar and orange zest, so that sweet and sour were in harmony. I wiped the platter clean.

The Pork Jelly with Chinese Wine is classic Chiu Chow (or Teochew), with a little "updating" from executive chef Alex Au. It's pig trotter and pig's tail simmered in "lo sui" or aged braising sauce with herbs till the gelatine comes out. Rose wine is then added and the gelatinous meat is chilled till set. I bit slowly through a slice of this, savouring the almost buttery texture of the meat encased in soft gelatine, touched with the fragrance of the wine. It was so delicious.

The Combination of Cold Platters begins the six-course Oscars of Hospitality Set Menu at Pak Loh Chiu Chow. Available from June 1 till end July, it's to celebrate Chef Alex winning the title of Masterchef (Asian cuisine) in the Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards 2013-2015.

Pak Loh Chiu Chow was named Hapa Restaurant of the Year and also received the Hapa Flavours of Asia award.

Chef Alex presented as second course the Fortune Parcel of Prawns in Double-boiled Superior Almond Soup. At first glance, the "parcel" looked like a fluffy snow fungus sitting in a white soup, but it was actually a delicate egg white skin with a prawn filling within. Fortune Parcel of Prawns in Double-boiled Superior Almond Soup. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Fortune Parcel of Prawns in Double-boiled Superior Almond Soup. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Unusually, this almond soup was savoury, not sweet. It was the smoothest, most fragrant almond soup I have ever had. "I blended it three times and filtered it," said chef Alex. He added strips of deep-fried fish skin to the almond soup for mouthfeel; it had a nice, toasty aroma too. I love almond soup, but it's always sweet, not savoury. This was exquisite.

Steamed Fillet of Imperial Sea Grouper rolled with Vegetables in Chiu Chow Style was next. This featured fish rolled up with enoki mushrooms and yellow chives, then wrapped in Chinese cabbage and steamed with salted vegetables, thin slices of carrot, tomato and sour plum. It's a typical Chiu Chow technique in steaming fish, said the chef. The Steamed Quail’s Egg accompanied by Sun-dried Scallops. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.The Steamed Quail's Egg accompanied by Sun-dried Scallops. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Wrapping the cabbage around the fish keeps it moist and prevents it from being overcooked. Again, the sauce was a winner, hitting the spot with sour tempered with sweet, touched with a little wine. There was no question of not drinking it up.

The Steamed Quail's Egg accompanied by Sun-dried Scallops looked like a daisy, in a "cup" made of fine threads of dried scallops. Green vegetables fanning out completed the ensemble. The crispy, flavourful dried scallop cup collapsed at first bite into the creamy egg, touched with the light and sweet sauce steeped from dried scallops.

Village Style Wok-Fried Fragrant Rice with Assorted Seafood, Duck Egg and Shrimp Paste. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Village Style Wok-Fried Fragrant Rice with Assorted Seafood, Duck Egg and Shrimp Paste. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Even the Village Style Wok-Fried Fragrant Rice with Assorted Seafood, Duck Egg and Shrimp Paste was out of the ordinary. The chef had fried the rice with prawns, grouper meat and the famous har cheong or shrimp sauce from Tai O in Lantau Island, Hong Kong. He served it wrapped in a net made from duck egg.

The Chilled Osmanthus Flower Jelly served with Fresh Aloe Vera and Bird's Nest provided a flawless ending to our lunch. It hit a high note with the fragrant, delicate jelly, cubes of smooth aloe vera and a dollop of bird's nest. Small cubes of honeydew and rock melon and a kei chee (wolfberry) sauce completed it.

Chilled Osmanthus Flower Jelly served with Fresh Aloe Vera and Bird’s Nest. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Chilled Osmanthus Flower Jelly served with Fresh Aloe Vera and Bird's Nest. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.The Oscars of Hospitality Set Menu is priced at RM138++ per person. Two glasses of wine are served with this: Grant Burge Benchmark Chardonnay from Australia and Hunter's Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand.

It's a menu worthwhile sampling thanks to the passion and consummate skills of Chef Alex. He's originally from the Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant in Hong Kong, where he learnt his art from a master chef. He has been with Pak Loh in Starhill Gallery since it started in 2004. His signature dishes include Cold Flower Crab, Salted Pork steamed and deep-fried, Braised Goose, Oyster Porridge and of course Oh Nee, the well-loved Chiu Chow yam dessert.

Pak Loh Chiu Chow is located at Feast Floor, Starhill Gallery, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur; tel: 03-2782 3856. – May 31, 2014.

Chef Alex, originally from the Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant in Hong Kong. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.Chef Alex, originally from the Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant in Hong Kong. – The Malaysian Insider pic, May 31, 2014.

Kredit: http://www.themalaysianinsider.com

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