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The Malaysian Insider :: Food

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A dream Christmas dinner at The Restaurant Posted: 20 Dec 2013 06:44 PM PST BY EU HOOI KHAW December 21, 2013 Oven Roasted Christmas Duck served as breast and leg, orange gravy, chanterelle bread dumplings, braised red cabbage.The Prawn Tortellini with Lemongrass was so light and subtle, a worthy amuse bouche to start our  dinner at The Restaurant, Club Saujana Resort. Tuna Carpaccio Marinade with Spiced Oil, Whole Tomato Mousse, Tomato Salsa and Grilled Octopus.Next, the Tuna Carpaccio Marinated with Spiced Oil, White Tomato Mousse, Tomato Salsa and Grilled Octopus picked up the momentum. I have heard such a good account of executive chef Alexander Waschl before I went to The Restaurant, and his culinary artistry already showed in this platter of many components but which all came together brilliantly. There was the silky tuna carpaccio with a little heat from the spiced oil, the complex grilled octopus, the tart and sweet tomato salsa, the fragrant pesto and the two blobs of white tomato mousse that I had mistaken for daikon at first. I loved the trembly tomato mousse, with its sweet essence derived from tomato water and whipped up with gelatine. We were dining on the set dinner menu for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. It's a refined one that dances from fish to chicken to lamb, then duck or salmon. Double-boiled Chicken Consomme, Rosemary Semolina Dumpling, Slow Poached Foie Gras on Chicken Ragout.I always look forward to a good consommé, and was content with the Double-boiled Chicken Consomme, Rosemary Semolina Dumpling and Slow Poached Foie Gras on Chicken Ragout. A wonderful aroma wafted up as the consommé was served, it had depth and yet was delicate. The tender rosemary-infused dumplings broke up at the bite. The poached foie gras with chicken ragout was creamy and lovely. The various vegetables on top of the Braised Lamb Shoulder with Vegetable Sauce and Truffle Onion Wantan, had us guessing what they were. The chef told us later – purple and yellow heirloom carrots which had been confit in lamb fat, concentrating their sweetness. No wonder they tasted so good. Medium Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Vegetable Sauce, Truffle Onion Wantan.The lamb had been braised with the normal carrot and celery, with leeks. The sauce was superb. The Truffle Onion Wantan was a surprising but amazing element on the plate. The Passionfruit Sorbet with Passionfruit Sauce and Yoghurt was delightful, with the intense sweetness and tartness of passionfruit balanced with the mild yoghurt. The chef decided to have duck, not turkey for the Christmas menu, and we had the Oven-roasted Christmas Duck served as breast and leg, Orange Gravy, Chanterelle Bread Dumplings and Braised Red Cabbage. It was the classic duck a l'orange, but done in the chef's alternative style. The duck marination had star anise, fennel seeds and pimento in it. It was so good – the tender, juicy duck breast with the scent of Christmas spices, and touched with the gorgeous orange sauce. The duck leg had been almost confit, said the chef, the duck fat rendering the skin crispy and the meat almost falling off the bone. There were sweet apple and braised cabbage, and the chanterelle dumplings that looked like tofu but every bite is filled with earthy chanterelles. Smoked Salmon with Spice Fennel Frond, Saffron Potato, Tomato, Crabmeat and Mussel.There was Smoked Salmon with Spice Fennel Frond, Saffron Potato, Tomato, Crabmeat and Mussel for the other main course. The salmon had been cold smoked with hickory, and it had this significant smoky lift which was so pleasing. A knob of luscious crabmeat, a mussel, potato in a saffron soup, the fennel frond and Christmas spices, as the chef called them, added layers of flavours to the salmon. Christmas Pudding with Vanilla Sauce.The pre-dessert was the Christmas Pudding with Vanilla Sauce, just a thin slice of it, packed with dried fruits, nuts, spice and heady hints. It was truly sublime, but even then the chef deemed it too early to be served, maturing only at Christmas. The Chocolate Brownie with Christmas Pear Mousse and Jelly, Champagne Pear Sorbet and Poached Pear was exquisite. Chocolate Brownie with Christmas Pear Mousse and Jelly, Champagne Pear Sorbet and Poached Pear.There was the chewy, nutty and chocolatey brownie at the base, with pear and champagne mousse on top, with pear poached in champagne, and pear champagne sorbet at the side. I loved how the chef played around with different forms of the same main ingredient, resulting in a mélange of divine textures and flavours. Chef Alexander Waschl.The menu prices for set dinner on December 24 and 25 are RM195 nett for any three courses, RM206 nett for four courses, RM218 nett for five courses and RM228 nett for any six courses. I would go for six! The Restaurant is serene and elegant, with a terrace outside beside a beautifully lit water feature. You can choose to dine here too. Executive chef Alexander, who's Austrian, was last with The Grand Hotel Kronenhof in Pontresina, Switzerland, and was part of the team that earned it 16 Gault Milau points, the equivalent of a Michelin star. Inside The Restaurant at Saujana.He is constantly adding new dishes to his menu, keeping his diners interested and The Restaurant busy. The Restaurant is open from 10am to midnight. – December 21, 2013. * The Saujana Resort is at Jalan Lapangan Terbang SAAS, Shah Alam. Call 03-7806 7000 or email dine@theclubsaujanaresort.com.

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