The Malaysian Insider :: Food
The Malaysian Insider :: Food |
| Liquid Gold from Spain - Sue Chien Lee Posted: 05 Aug 2013 06:58 PM PDT Some people are surprised by the kick in the back of the throat when they first encounter an oil with character. There's more to it than meets the eye (or tastebuds). In fact, spicy, slightly bitter and robust oils tend to have more polyphenols (there are about nine different categories of polyphenols in a good EVOO) which have antioxidant and potentially anti-ageing properties. The Olive Press explains: "In addition … polyphenols, also contain strong anti-inflammatory properties. A recent study showed that extra virgin olive oil contains a certain phenol compound called oleocanthal, which acts similar to ibuprofen in the body. This shows the potential for olive oil's ability to help reduce the risk of strokes, as explored in an article on WebMD. It's thought that two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil a day is enough to provide these anti-inflammatory benefits." EVOO and its possible protection against Alzheimer's disease is explained here. Apart from its health benefits, what makes a good EVOO? Marta Angulo of A Taste of Spain explains: "EVOO is authentic olive oil without any additional treatment. We ought not confuse EVOO with what is simply called 'olive oil' which is made of refined olive oil (through thermal processing) and combined with a percentage of extra virgin olive oil which lends it colour and flavour. Olive oil is a good option for frying, for example. But it is without doubt inferior in quality to EVOO. "To gain qualification as 'extra virgin', the oil ought have an acidity inferior to 0,8% and be impeccable from the analytical and sensorial points of view, that is, without defect on the palate. Apart from this minimal requirement, I recommend having various EVOOs at home, with different profiles of distinctive flavours, and experiment with them in cooking. Of course with a Premium EVOO (which won't come cheap), I recommend it be used raw." Marta says that apart from being the largest olive oil producer in the world with a quota which exceeds 30% of world production, Spain offers the sector a great variety of EVOO which come from diverse varietals (there are about 260 from Spain alone) with a large palate of flavours and aromas which no other producer-country offers. "Spain has a great diversity of ecosystems which makes it a type of mini-continent. From the mild and humid climate of the Northern zone to the semi-desert-like and subtropical Southeast, moving on to the Central Plains with its Continental or East Mediterranean climate, each territory has its own defining characteristics. Olive cultivation in Spain goes back 3,000 years and the great civilizations which ruled Spain throughout the centuries were olive cultivators. They each chose trees that were best adapted to the landscape and climate of each territory. This has enabled Spain to offer a choice selection of mono-varietals, with differentiated tastes. Will any olive oil bought off the shelf do? Not quite. As EVOO is in essence fresh fruit juice (the olive is a fruit, not a seed or nut), it is sensitive to heat, light and oxygen. So, try to get an EVOO that comes in dark bottles (or keep the oil away from heat and light). The ideal temperature to store olive oil to reduce oxidation but to avoid clouding is around 50°F. It makes perfect sense to use EVOO liberally, and in imaginative ways. As much as possible, try to use Premium EVOO raw, or slightly heated. Never in a Chinese stir-fry because of the wok hei (required for a good char kuay teow). When tasting EVOO, go with an open mind: eat slowly, mindfully, and cast away any comparisons with spicy Malaysian foods we might prefer. Treat an EVOO gently: breakfast with good bread dipped in EVOO as a substitute for butter and margarine, and you'll quickly fall for the fruity, pungent, sometimes bitter tastes and aromas. I've been hooked ever since I came to Barcelona six years ago, and my journey through the wondrous world of Spanish-made olive oils will never wane. Rising Stars Marta Angulo explains: "The most common varietals in Spain are picual, hojiblanca, arbequina, cornicabra, empeltre and manzanilla. Given the wide choice, olive oil producers are experimenting with lesser-known varietals, in the form of monovarietals and coupages. Premium EVOO producers are now pursuing, not only maximum quality with sublime oils, but also bringing forth the marked personality and differentiating attribute of such oils. Such is the case of Royal de Cazorla de Castillo de Canena, of which Marta's good friend and olive oil expert Santiago Botas has written a review in his blog ( http://santiagobotas.aceitedeolivablog.com/tag/royal-de-cazorla/ ). He explains that the designation "Royal" o "Rojal", is used in diverse regions of Spain to refer to distinct olive varietals whose fruit take on a reddish-russet colour in the maturation process. Given its unique sensorial properties and low yield, the producer has established a quota for distribution, as is the case with great wines. Masia el Altet (http://www.masia-el-altet.com/en/ )"Special selection" single variety 100% Changlot Real EVOO is another gem. "It is a balanced and harmonious extra virgin olive oil of great personality and complexity. On the nose, you'll find herbaceous notes of freshly-cut grass, fennel (strong), citric fruit (orange, lemon and grapefruit), notes of green banana and prunes, fig leaves, tender green almonds (both the shell and the incipient fruit), apple and peach at the moment their colour starts to lighten, tomato plant and green tomato. In the mouth, it's sweet and dense as it enters the mouth, with a very balanced spiciness and bitterness, herbaceous notes, as given above, great complexity; notes of citric fruit, green banana, artichoke, tomato, tomato plant, and other spontaneous, secondary nuances." * The importer of Masia el Altet EVOO is CLEV Marketing & Distribution Sdn Bhd. ** When in Barcelona, shop for EVOO at olisoliva.com (http://www.olisoliva.com/), a tiny locale in the Mercado Santa Caterina in El Borne. Ask to taste three or four types (una cata de aceites) and they'll gladly let you explore their fine collection of EVOO. * Sue writes at http://suezl.com/ and can be contacted at http://about.me/suechien.lee |
| Posted: 05 Aug 2013 06:58 PM PDT Some people are surprised by the kick in the back of the throat when they first encounter an oil with character. There's more to it than meets the eye (or tastebuds). In fact, spicy, slightly bitter and robust oils tend to have more polyphenols (there are about nine different categories of polyphenols in a good EVOO) which have antioxidant and potentially anti-ageing properties. The Olive Press explains: "In addition … polyphenols, also contain strong anti-inflammatory properties. A recent study showed that extra virgin olive oil contains a certain phenol compound called oleocanthal, which acts similar to ibuprofen in the body. This shows the potential for olive oil's ability to help reduce the risk of strokes, as explored in an article on WebMD. It's thought that two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil a day is enough to provide these anti-inflammatory benefits." EVOO and its possible protection against Alzheimer's disease is explained here. Apart from its health benefits, what makes a good EVOO? Marta Angulo of A Taste of Spain explains: "EVOO is authentic olive oil without any additional treatment. We ought not confuse EVOO with what is simply called 'olive oil' which is made of refined olive oil (through thermal processing) and combined with a percentage of extra virgin olive oil which lends it colour and flavour. Olive oil is a good option for frying, for example. But it is without doubt inferior in quality to EVOO. "To gain qualification as 'extra virgin', the oil ought have an acidity inferior to 0,8% and be impeccable from the analytical and sensorial points of view, that is, without defect on the palate. Apart from this minimal requirement, I recommend having various EVOOs at home, with different profiles of distinctive flavours, and experiment with them in cooking. Of course with a Premium EVOO (which won't come cheap), I recommend it be used raw." Marta says that apart from being the largest olive oil producer in the world with a quota which exceeds 30% of world production, Spain offers the sector a great variety of EVOO which come from diverse varietals (there are about 260 from Spain alone) with a large palate of flavours and aromas which no other producer-country offers. "Spain has a great diversity of ecosystems which makes it a type of mini-continent. From the mild and humid climate of the Northern zone to the semi-desert-like and subtropical Southeast, moving on to the Central Plains with its Continental or East Mediterranean climate, each territory has its own defining characteristics. Olive cultivation in Spain goes back 3,000 years and the great civilizations which ruled Spain throughout the centuries were olive cultivators. They each chose trees that were best adapted to the landscape and climate of each territory. This has enabled Spain to offer a choice selection of mono-varietals, with differentiated tastes. Will any olive oil bought off the shelf do? Not quite. As EVOO is in essence fresh fruit juice (the olive is a fruit, not a seed or nut), it is sensitive to heat, light and oxygen. So, try to get an EVOO that comes in dark bottles (or keep the oil away from heat and light). The ideal temperature to store olive oil to reduce oxidation but to avoid clouding is around 50°F. It makes perfect sense to use EVOO liberally, and in imaginative ways. As much as possible, try to use Premium EVOO raw, or slightly heated. Never in a Chinese stir-fry because of the wok hei (required for a good char kuay teow). When tasting EVOO, go with an open mind: eat slowly, mindfully, and cast away any comparisons with spicy Malaysian foods we might prefer. Treat an EVOO gently: breakfast with good bread dipped in EVOO as a substitute for butter and margarine, and you'll quickly fall for the fruity, pungent, sometimes bitter tastes and aromas. I've been hooked ever since I came to Barcelona six years ago, and my journey through the wondrous world of Spanish-made olive oils will never wane. Rising Stars Marta Angulo explains: "The most common varietals in Spain are picual, hojiblanca, arbequina, cornicabra, empeltre and manzanilla. Given the wide choice, olive oil producers are experimenting with lesser-known varietals, in the form of monovarietals and coupages. Premium EVOO producers are now pursuing, not only maximum quality with sublime oils, but also bringing forth the marked personality and differentiating attribute of such oils. Such is the case of Royal de Cazorla de Castillo de Canena, of which Marta's good friend and olive oil expert Santiago Botas has written a review in his blog ( http://santiagobotas.aceitedeolivablog.com/tag/royal-de-cazorla/ ). He explains that the designation "Royal" o "Rojal", is used in diverse regions of Spain to refer to distinct olive varietals whose fruit take on a reddish-russet colour in the maturation process. Given its unique sensorial properties and low yield, the producer has established a quota for distribution, as is the case with great wines. Masia el Altet (http://www.masia-el-altet.com/en/ )"Special selection" single variety 100% Changlot Real EVOO is another gem. "It is a balanced and harmonious extra virgin olive oil of great personality and complexity. On the nose, you'll find herbaceous notes of freshly-cut grass, fennel (strong), citric fruit (orange, lemon and grapefruit), notes of green banana and prunes, fig leaves, tender green almonds (both the shell and the incipient fruit), apple and peach at the moment their colour starts to lighten, tomato plant and green tomato. In the mouth, it's sweet and dense as it enters the mouth, with a very balanced spiciness and bitterness, herbaceous notes, as given above, great complexity; notes of citric fruit, green banana, artichoke, tomato, tomato plant, and other spontaneous, secondary nuances." * The importer of Masia el Altet EVOO is CLEV Marketing & Distribution Sdn Bhd. ** When in Barcelona, shop for EVOO at olisoliva.com (http://www.olisoliva.com/), a tiny locale in the Mercado Santa Caterina in El Borne. Ask to taste three or four types (una cata de aceites) and they'll gladly let you explore their fine collection of EVOO. * Sue writes at http://suezl.com/ and can be contacted at http://about.me/suechien.lee |
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